Being mid-December, and being that Mt. Hood gets some of the most snow in the lower 48 annually, I wanted to hurry up and squeeze in a hike in the Mt. Hood National Forest before it becomes a winter wonderland. I did the first half of the trail (the Lower trail, see below) by myself on Saturday, and my wife and I returned the following day to do the second half (the Upper trail) on Sunday.
When you hit the town of
Zigzag, Oregon coming up into Mt. Hood territory from Portland via highway 26, turn south on Salmon River Road to one of two Salmon River Trailheads. It is very easy to get to and the road is paved all the way, whether you park at the "Lower" Salmon River trailhead (which is right after the Mt Hood National Forest sign) or the "Upper" trailhead, which is about another 2 miles down the road right before a bridge that goes over the Salmon River. You'd have to be blind to miss either of them. I parked at the first trailhead on Saturday and the second trailhead on Sunday.
Here is the Lower Salmon River Trail (742A)
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
Right from the trailhead you encounter about the only elevation you're going to experience the entire hike as you head down through gorgeous, mossy old-growth forest to the river. The photo below was taken just moments after stepping onto the trail.
Once you get down the hill, the rest of the hike follows the river closely. This is probably called the Lower Salmon River hike because throughout the hike you walk at about the same elevation as the river (unlike in the Upper trail, where for most of the hike, and especially at the end, you are at a higher elevation than the river). Along your walk, about every hundred yards or so you'll find a small side path leading over to the river's edge. I could not help but thinking that this trail would be a wonderful place to spend a summer day, wading in the water, having a picnic with my wife, and just relaxing with a good book.
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
Early on in the hike you encounter massive trees, including one cedar with roughly a 10 foot diameter shown below. It is hard to get a sense of just how big it was with a photo. Next time I encounter a tree this big I'll be sure to place my backpack next to the tree to give perspective on size. This tree is breathtakingly beautiful, and awe-some to think of how old it must be.
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
You'll encounter countless massive Douglas Firs too, as well as trees to mossy it appears as though they have a coat of wooly fur. As for the trail itself, there was a little mud along the path in spots, but the vast majority of the hike, though damp, was just right, especially where the pine needles lay a blanket on top of the mud.
Though hard to see in the photo below, there is a massive fell tree that juts out over the river right next to a backpacker's single campsite. If it were summertime, I probably would have walked out to the edge. Not the smartest thing to do in winter.
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
The water was clear as glass and, not surprising, cold. Perhaps my favorite form that water can take is the clear, cold mountain stream, which I have been away from for a long time. All along this whole hike you hear the roar of the rapids-laden river, louder in some place than in others. But you can hear it the whole time. It lends a peacefulness to the hike that will draw me back here again and again.
There is one official campground as well as several places for backpackers to set up camp and build a fire throughout the trail.
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
At three points along the trail you meet up with the Salmon River Road. Two of those times you walk along the road for a very short while. The last time you cross the road, at the trailhead to Upper Salmon River Trail (742), Lower Salmon River Trail officially ends and the Upper begins. But until then, here are some more photos from the Lower trail.
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
The Lower trail was about 6 miles round trip.
Here is the
Upper Salmon River Trail (742)
This is my favorite half of the trail. The Lower half has some outstanding trees and a multitude of spots to split from the main trail to the river. But the Lower trail runs parallel to the road, and often times the hike is so close to the road it doesn't really even feel like a hike, but more like a nature park. The Upper trail, however, is a bonefide trail! It has everything the Lower trail has and more, it strays far from the road, and it climbs high above the river at the end to a magnificent view.
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| Photo by William Sullivan and Oregon.com: http://www.oregon.com/Hike_Old_Salmon_River_Trail |
The trail is called "Upper" because right from the trailhead you climb up onto a ridge that follows the river from up above. It is here where you can apparently get a great bird's-eye-view of migrating salmon in the fall. The trail drops off steeply on the river-side for much of the hike, until you hit these dark pockets of speechless beauty: Douglas Fir forests that look mythical, as if they would be the habitat of trolls, fairies, elves, Yoda, Willow, Hobbits, etc. My wife and I took several moments to stop and take it all in. It almost does not feel real, especially to us born-and-bred Midwesterners. Frost said it best, "The woods are lovely, dark and deep." Here are some snapshot from the Upper trail.
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
To stand at the base of an old-growth tree and stare up into its reaches is one of the most beautiful experiences in nature. I completely understand where the term "tree-hugger" came from, and I am proud to call myself one. To view a tree this size, to realize its age, to realize that it is a living thing is to feel related to it. The more of these trees I see, the more I abhore anthropocentrism and the human belief that nature is theirs to do whatever they please with.
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
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| Salmon River - Mt. Hood (click to enlarge) |
This was the first trail that I have hiked since returning to my beloved Portland, and I know that I will be returning often to this trail with my wife. We both fell in love with it instantly. It will be a hard hike to beat in terms of scenery, and the sound of the river throughout the entire hike constantly reminds you that you're in the wilderness. This is, to date, the most beautiful forest I've ever seen. The forests of the Rockies are beautiful, no doubt, but they have nothing on the forests of the Pacific Northwest. There is something magical and surreal about them.
The Upper trail was about 6.5 miles round trip.
After the Lower trail hike on Saturday, about a block east of the intersection of Hwy 26 and Salmon River Road you'll find the
Zigzag Inn. I stopped for a couple
Mt. Hood Brewing Co.'s Ice Axe I.P.A.s and a small personal pizza which the bartender recommended (I asked her what the Inn was known for and she said "their pizzas and burgers." Sunday morning my wife and I ate breakfast here before tackling the Upper trail. Their french toast is made the same way my mom used to make it growing up, so to me it was perfect. My wife's Denver omlette could have fed two people easily.
The atmosphere of this restaurant/ bar & grill perfectly complements the atmosphere, scenery, and overall feel of the Mt. Hood National Forest. It feels like an old warm cabin on the inside and looks like an old roadhouse on the outside (see below). Low ceilings, fireplace, everything is made of dark heavy wood. I could have spent an entire evening sitting here resting my legs and nursing a few beers after a long hike. I have a feeling that the Zigzag Inn will be my go-to-place every time I come out this way.
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| Zigzag Inn, Zigzag, Oregon |
Salmon River Trail- turn right off Hwy 26 onto Salmon River Rd. and keep on it until you see a parking area right before a bridge over the river. Park here. The trailhead is on the left.
